How do you mount a dartboard?

May 9, 202311 min read

To mount a dartboard properly, fix the board securely to a suitable wall, set the bullseye centre at 1.73m from the floor, then measure the throwing distance from the face of the board to the oche at 2.37m for standard steel-tip darts. The key detail is that you measure to the bull and from the board face, not from the top of the board or the wall behind it.

Last reviewed: 24 August 2026. This guide covers wall mounting, height, distance, fixings, safety clearance, rental-friendly alternatives and the checks that stop a board moving during play.

Infographic showing the correct sequence for mounting a dartboard with bullseye height, oche distance and stability checks — The correct order is simple: secure the board, set the bull height, measure from the board face, then check the board does not move.

The direct answer

Mount the dartboard so the centre of the bullseye is 1.73m from the floor. For a standard steel-tip setup, measure 2.37m from the front face of the board to the throwing line. If you want a diagonal check, the distance from the bullseye to the front edge of the oche should be about 2.93m.

The board must be fixed firmly enough that it does not wobble when darts land. A loose board gives poor feedback, increases bounce-outs and makes practice less reliable. Mounting is not finished when the board is merely hanging; it is finished when the setup is stable, measured and safe to use.

What you need before you start

You need a dartboard, wall bracket or mounting plate, suitable screws or wall fixings, a tape measure, pencil, spirit level and enough clear floor space. If the board is going on plasterboard, brick, concrete or a stud wall, use fixings appropriate to that wall type. Do not rely on light picture hooks or undersized plugs.

If you are starting from scratch, choose a proper dartboard first. Add dartboard surrounds if the wall needs protection, and consider dartboard stands if drilling is not possible.

Choose the right wall

The best wall is flat, solid and away from doors, windows, televisions, fragile furniture and busy walkways. Darts need more than the board area. You also need side clearance, a safe throw zone and enough space behind the player for people to move without crossing the line of throw.

A garage, spare room, games room or dedicated practice corner usually works better than a narrow hallway. If children, pets or visitors use the space, treat the board like a permanent throwing area and keep the zone controlled while darts are being thrown.

Step 1: mark the bullseye height

Measure 1.73m from the floor and mark the wall at the point where the bullseye centre should sit. This is the most common place people go wrong. The measurement is not to the top of the board, not to the top of the cabinet, and not to the screw. It is to the bullseye centre after the board is hanging.

If your floor is uneven, measure from the spot where players will stand and throw. For a permanent setup, check that any mat or raised floor surface does not change the effective height.

Step 2: work out the bracket position

Most bristle boards use a central screw or bracket system. The exact screw position depends on the board and bracket, so follow the board manufacturer's mounting instructions. The practical aim is simple: once the board is on the bracket, the bull must sit on your 1.73m mark.

Before drilling, hold the board and bracket in place and check the relationship between the screw position and the bull. This five-minute check prevents the classic mistake of drilling at bull height and ending up with a board that hangs too low or too high.

Step 3: use fixings that match the wall

For solid masonry, use suitable wall plugs and screws. For timber, screw into a solid fixing point. For plasterboard, use proper plasterboard fixings rated for the load and vibration. Darts create repeated impact, so the mount needs to resist movement as well as weight.

If the wall feels hollow, crumbly or unreliable, do not force a permanent mount. Use a backing board fixed properly across studs, choose another wall, or use a freestanding setup instead.

Step 4: hang the board and level it

Hang the board on the mounting plate, then rotate it until the 20 segment is at the top and the number ring is correctly aligned. The board should sit flat against the wall or cabinet backing. If it rocks, rattles or tilts, tighten the mounting system before measuring the oche.

A small amount of rotation is normal on boards with movable number rings, but the body of the board should not shift every time a dart lands. Stability is part of accuracy because moving targets make practice data unreliable.

Cabinets and backing boards

A cabinet can make a home setup cleaner, but it adds depth. That means the throwing distance still needs to be measured from the front face of the dartboard, not the wall or the back of the cabinet. If the cabinet doors open wide, check that they do not create a distraction or a sharp edge near the throwing area.

A backing board is useful when the wall itself is not ideal. It can spread the load across a wider area, give you a cleaner fixing surface and make the setup easier to remove later. The backing board must still be fixed securely; it is not a shortcut around weak wall fixings.

Step 5: measure the oche from the board face

Measure 2.37m from the front face of the board to the throwing line. This detail matters if the board is mounted in a cabinet or on a backing panel, because measuring from the wall can make the throw too long. The regulation steel-tip distance is measured from the board face.

Mark the oche clearly with a mat, tape, raised strip or floor marker. The front edge of the line is the point players must not cross. If the line moves between sessions, your practice results are harder to compare.

Use the diagonal check

A diagonal measurement is a good final test. From the centre of the bullseye to the front edge of the oche, the measurement should be about 2.93m for a standard steel-tip setup. This check catches small height or distance errors quickly.

It is especially useful when the wall is not perfectly flat, the floor is uneven, or the board is mounted inside a cabinet. If the diagonal is significantly off, recheck height and distance before blaming your throw.

Protect the wall and floor

Even good players miss the board. Beginners miss it more often. A surround gives a clean safety buffer around the scoring area without changing the rules of the game. It also makes a home setup look finished rather than improvised.

Floor protection can matter too. Steel tips can mark hard floors if darts fall out or bounce back. A mat or suitable floor surface protects the room and gives you a consistent standing reference.

Rental-friendly options

If you cannot drill, use a quality stand instead of improvising with weak temporary hooks. A stand still needs to be measured correctly: bull at 1.73m, oche from the board face at 2.37m, and enough weight or support that the board does not move.

Stands are useful in rented homes, shared spaces, garages and temporary practice areas. They are not automatically inferior to wall mounting, but they must be checked regularly because small movements change the setup.

Equipment that helps

A complete setup is more than a board and three darts. Use a stable bristle dartboard, protective surround, measured mat or other darts accessories, and comfortable darts. If you are buying for a new player, complete dart sets can be easier than choosing every part separately.

Lighting also matters. Shadows across the treble and double beds make scoring harder and can affect confidence. If the board sits in a dark corner, solve visibility before assuming your accuracy has disappeared.

Common mounting mistakes

Measuring to the top of the board: the correct height is to the centre of the bullseye.
Measuring from the wall: the oche distance is from the front face of the board.
Using weak fixings: repeated dart impact can loosen a poor mount.
Ignoring side clearance: a legal distance is not enough if the throw area is unsafe.
Skipping the wobble check: if the board moves, the setup is not ready.

When to remount the board

Remount the board if the bull height is wrong, the board moves on impact, the wall fixing has loosened, the oche was measured from the wall instead of the board face, or the throw area is unsafe. Small setup errors become large practice errors over time.

You should also rotate the board regularly if it has a movable number ring. Rotation spreads wear across the sisal and keeps heavily used areas such as treble 20 in better condition for longer.

Final five-minute test

Before calling the setup finished, throw a controlled visit into the board, then check four things. Did the board move? Did the bracket rattle? Is the bull still at 1.73m? Is the front edge of the oche still 2.37m from the board face?

Then stand at the oche and look around the room. Check side clearance, ceiling lights, nearby shelves, loose cables and whether anyone could walk through the throw line unexpectedly. A premium home setup is not just accurate; it is safe, repeatable and easy to use without resetting it every session.

Visual guide: how to apply this at the board

A practical decision map for applying the mount a dartboard answer at a real board.

Use this matrix to turn the mount a dartboard question into the right practice, scoring or setup decision.

Sources used

PDC rules of darts for standard steel-tip setup context.
PDC Europe rules for dartboard height and oche distance.
Red Dragon darts rules for common game and setup guidance.
GLD Products hanging guide for practical mounting guidance.
CITS sports dimensions guide for darts for measurement confirmation.

Bottom line

Mounting a dartboard well is about sequence and stability. Set the bullseye at 1.73m, measure the oche 2.37m from the board face, use fixings that suit the wall, protect the area and check that the board stays still when darts land. Once those basics are right, practice becomes fair, repeatable and safer.